Pomo Kopi

This is a simple nasi lemak, with the nasi (rice), sambal (chili paste), ikan bilis (fried small fish), and a small slice of thin omelette. The otak otak (fish cake) was extra. This particular nasi lemak was served on a banana leaf, and purchased from Kopi O, one of a number of new second (or third) wave Kopitiams.

Kopitiams (literally "coffee shop" in Malaysian/Singaporean Hokkien) are small self-seating eateries that serve a traditionally very limited menu (coffee, tea and Milo with various combinations of condensed milk or sugar, kaya toast, soft boiled eggs, and some cooked food items like nasi lemak).

The first wave of kopitiams were independently owned, non-airconditioned shopfronts that were ubiquitous in the commercial streets of the Singaporean "heartlands" (any place outside the Central Business District or CBD). Generally, the kopitiam was frequented by locals, and developed a reputation based on the quality of its coffee, and its kaya toast (it really takes a tour of kopitiams to realize how many variables must go into making a good version of the "simple" dish of kaya toast, which is basically kaya - a pandan flavored egg curd - with a pat of butter between two slices of toast).

This current wave (more on whether it's third or second wave later) of kopitiams are often set up by owners of particularly successful versions of the original kopitiams, retaining the names, limited menu, and, usually, the kaya recipe and probably coffee roasting technique, of the first instantiation, as well as the generally low prices (around $1 for kopi, and $1.50 for kaya toast) but in chain form. These new kopitiams have appeared in air-conditioned malls all over Singapore, and are fast approaching (and perhaps in Singapore have surpassed) the blanket coverage of foreign coffee chains like Starbucks. In addition to changed locations, generally the furniture is different (wooden or metal chairs instead of plastic) and the menu is printed up on pearlescent paper or a wooden board rather than on A4 laminated paper or a backlit plastic board.

The new wave of kopitiams offer a slice of "heartland" life for nostalgic second- and third- generation Singaporeans and PRs (children who were born well after Singaporean independence), and their indulgent parents, who might well be just as comfortable in the non air-conditioned versions with plastic chairs, but are happy to tag along to the cooler - literally and metaphorically - mall, and have a familiar kopi while their kids ask them questions about what's so special about Malaysian/Singaporean coffee that gives it that unique taste (turns out they roast the beans with sugar and wheat or corn).

As for whether these are second or third wave, it's arguable that the foreign cafes (e.g., Starbucks, Coffee Bean) were a "second wave" of coffee shops, though there is only a vague resemblance to the menu of the traditional kopitiam (espresso instead of coffee, no local hot foods, an abundance of pastries), and the prices would scandalize ($5 for a latte? $3 for a biscotti?!) first generationers.